Olympus viewer 3 reviews11/4/2023 I agree with this statement I'm tired of wasting hours with LR post processing the ORF file when I can automatically do it in OV3! Yes you can get LR to work but just look at some of the presets that members posted and how many changes were necessary to = OV3. I still use the current DXO and viewpoint with all my digital cameras including EM5 and I find it excellent in all respects, particularly noise reduction. ![]() At the time OV was not very effective, without lens correction and poor noise control. I have used DXO since changing from OM2 to E330 in 2006. Lightroom is up to version 5.6 and this version even has setting that emulates camera natural, camera vivid, and camera portrait.įor me Lightroom is far superior to OV3, you can adjust it exactly to your taste and work on regions which you can't do in OV3. I also shoot Canon, so having one package for PP and file management is a big plus Plus I find it does much better Noise Reduction than OV3. However the suite of features Lr provides, especially tagging, geo mapping, and folder management are hard to resist. I do use OV3 for doing time-lapse video though - a very handy feature. I've (so far) not found Lr to be in any way limiting with the ORF files from my E-30 and E-5, however is does take some careful settings to get the colours looking as 'nice' as those from my E-300's jpgs. But now for me OV3 is really the way to go to optimize results. Now you have to adapt to the OV3 and learn with the aid menu. I seriously tried to get most of Lightroom but have not been able to match the Olympus software. He shows wonderfull pictures and explains that olympus viewer is better. I really advise you to have a serious look at the blog of Robin wong. ![]() What I believe now is that Adobe is producing softwares that can work with any brand of cameras but if you work with the software made by the firm which produced your camera your images will be of higher standart. The convertion from canon or olympus to Dng was also supposed to be without any loss. But the reason to use Dng converter was based on the fact that converting files in Dng was supposed to give you long term compatibility with future computer treatement. I beleive that when I started with ORF files, they were not at the time compatible with LR. Now it is true that learning OV3 takes time but it is really worth the trouble. The quality of the pictures is really improved with ORF and OV3 Comparing the same image at 100% I found that there is a huge benefit in avoiding the Dng and lightroom. I have developped ORF files with OV3 and converted the same files to DNG an treated it with lightroom. You can save in jpeg or Tiff 16 bits for future local treatment if necessary. Better colors, better look of skin tones, better détails. I found that indeed the final ORF files developped in Olympus Viewer 3 give much better pictures than Dng files with lightroom. I used to develop the dng with Lightroom.īut after reading the Robin Wong blog (Robin develops with OV3), I started to load ORF files to my computer and develop the ORF file with Olympus Viewer 3. These days I generally move the focus point and don't recompose.I used to load my pictures in computor with Bridge, converting the raw ORF files into Dng files. I was shocked at how far off the focus box was from the subject in many of my images. Apparently the faster focus tracking of the OM-1 does a much better job of this than the earlier models. In C-AF or tracking you need to keep the focusing on the subject. Had I been shooting a short burst without refocusing and recomposing, only the first image would be in focus, in the second image whatever was in the dead center would be in focus and the bird might not be in focus. If I take a second image I need to focus on the bird and recompose again. Reviewing the image will show the bird away from the center but the green box will be at the center of the image since that's where it was when I had locked the focus. Then I move the bird away from the center box and take the image. For example I often do focus and recompose in S-AF using the small center box and locking the AF on the bird. If you held the shutter half way down and recomposed the scene your subject may be in different position. The indicated focus box shows where the focus was when you locked the focus.
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